A crackshot team of Rock and Ice investigative journalists has uncovered startling evidence that the famed erectile dysfunction drug Viagra also helps fight hypoxia at high altitudes. My sincere condolences to the family, friends, and teammates, and all of Quebec on their loss. My deep sympathy goes to his family and relatives, may his soul Rest In Peace.”, Garett Madison of Madison Mountaineering posted, “Unfortunately, today we witnessed a climber from another team (Canadian) falling down the mountain. It’s very difficult here! K2 is the last of the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks not summited in winter. The plan was to leave high camp around 1:00 am Saturday morning and summit about 12 hours later. It has been four years since Alan Arnette summited K2 back on July 27, 2014. Alan Arnette - Climbing to End Alzheimer's The Seven Summits Treks expedition is leaving K2 Base Camp, thus ending the effort for more winter summits. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their ⦠Today 15 jan at 3:30pm we 3 mingma made it to camp4 on k2. K2 is a killer. He also talked about how his teams have been so successful this year, including reaching the top on K2 when everyone else turned back and headed for home. In climbing arguably the worldâs most difficult mountain, Arnette is raising awareness and money for research for one of the worldâs most difficult diseases. As is usual with these tragedies, there are multiple versions of the incident emerging. The Khumbu Icefall avalanche that tragically killed 16 Sherpas essentially shut down the southern Everest season before it ⦠K2 remains the only 8,000-meter mountain not summited in the winter. Serge Dessureault, 53, was a Montreal firefighter for almost 30 years and was the leader of the three-person Quebec K2 team. Alan Arnette hefur eftir Sajid að þegar hann yfirgaf þremenningana hafi þeir verið sambandslausir, það er hvorki talstöðvar né gervihnattasímar þeirra virkuðu. As forecast, this weekend the climbers are having good weather for a change—clear skies and reasonable temperatures. We don’t know what happened, but the fall was fatal. ... a new sports blog and media company. James Proulx of Drummondville, Quebec, told me today, “I know for a fact that this whole team was very important for Quebecers. Alan Arnette is a climber and writes a blog on mountaineering. On his 58th birthday, Alan Arnette made history by becoming the oldest American to summit the second highest mountain in the world, K2 in Pakistan. The attention to detail was constantly on display. rockandice.com is completely free. Recently, Alan Arnette had the chance to interview Mingma on his accomplishments so far in 2017 and what he has planned next. Mingma G told climbing writer Alan Arnette that he intended to climb without oxygen, and Nimsdai said months ago that if he were to attempt K2 in winter he would do so without gas. He climbs to raise money and awareness of Alzheimerâs disease. K2 is the last of the 14 8,000-meter peaks that has not been summited in winter. I started climbing at age 38 and have gone on to complete 37 major expeditions. Winter K2 Summit Overview: The historic winter summit of K2 is under... way on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. Canadian climber Serge Dessureault is thought to have fallen to his death just below House’s Chimney or perhaps while rappelling down the Black Pyramid. Ha una fitta rete di rapporti con alpinisti e sherpa frequentatori degli Ottomila. Free climbed by American Bob House in 1939, it is a 100-foot shoulder-width crack in a rock wall. An Ed Douglas biography Tenzing Norgay is slated to be adapted for the screen by Netflix, and to be produced by the Obamasâ Higher Ground Productions. Alan Arnette è un alpinista e scrittore statunitense, grande appassionato di montagna, che, fra lâaltro, ha salito il K2 6 anni fa, quando aveva 58 anni. The body was found by a team member and a High-Porter, and was brought to ABC. The aims of the GRIT&ROCK Expedition Award are to encourage female participation in pioneering alpine ascents and to further the understanding and exploration of the unclimbed peaks. Sharing my personal hiking & climbing experiences, photos, other âs excursions, upcoming hiking events mainly in So Cal, other blogs mainly in the news plus links to information of interest to all hikers, mountaineers & mountain lovers. Free climbed by American Bob House in 1939, it is a 100-foot shoulder-width crack in a rock wall. Any mistake can be deadly in this section as it is low fifth class rock but highly exposed. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookies. July 7th, 2018. We were extremely careful, and double and triple checked to clip into only the new ropes put in that season. I keep thinking about the close family I know… it’s terrible.”. Mount Index, North Peak, North Face - Cascades - W... Manaslu : Progress Towards Camp 2 + Winter K2 Upda... K2 : Exclusive Interview with John Smorri + Manasl... Winter K2 Update : Waiting on Weather, Also on Man... Wy'east (Mt Hood) - Fric- Amos - Oregon Cascades -... K2 : More Summit Attemps Begin + Tamara Lunger Con... Winter K2 Update : Staying Warm at Minus 40 F/C + ... Welker - Wacky Wallow - N Cascades WA + The Latest... Winter K2 Update : Calm at B.C. We will never be able to thank you enough for the entire experience. And on the Gasherbrums, Adam Bielecki said, âThere is sunshine in the base camp again and the weather forecast for the next days is quite optimistic. First K2 Winter Team at Base Camp - from Alan Arnette on his detailed blog Mt Whitney - Sierra Nevada - CA -- Pictures from Calicokat ( Jim P ) - Smugmug and Facebook New Page on Personal Websites in the Forum of the General Section at Summitpost.org Summit push tonight. Recently, Alan complied the video clips that he shot from that expedition and put together a short documentary chronicling his attempt on the⦠Fortin added, “This morning [Serge Dessureault] left 30 minutes before me to get back to the CB [Base Camp]. Sharing my personal hiking & climbing experiences, photos, other ‘s excursions, upcoming hiking events mainly in So Cal, other blogs mainly in the news plus links to information of interest to all hikers, mountaineers & mountain lovers. Sona brother returned back 30 below from c4 coz his part of rope and gear were already used. 12. Alan Arnette ⢠Age: 57 ... On Thursday, Arnette leaves to climb K2 in northern Pakistan.  Most teams have climbers at C1 or C2 on K2. His body is found by his fellow member, High altitude porter and bought to ABC We are in touch with the family to get further instructions, the final decision will be made by the family to bring down the body or buried it near K2.”. Once we heard Alanâs remarkable story, we simply couldnât imagine not helping him reach this goal.â At 28,251 feet, K2 is the worldâs second highest mountain. Would love your thoughts, please comment. Over time, it has been determined to be the safest route to the higher flanks of K2. Very windy. Alan Arnette is a speaker, mountaineer and Alzheimerâs Advocate. If you're like me and spend each May watching the updates out of the Everest spring climbing season, you were disappointed this year. I know I can speak for the group when I say: The entire experience was amazing. (Source: CNN and Alan Arnette) 13. For 35 years Rock and Ice has committed to excellence and authenticity. The Award is open to individuals and climbing teams of any nationality with a majority female participation. Photo: Alan Arnette. Others questioned the Nepali climberâs use of supplemental oxygen, the specifics of which remain unclear. July 03, 2014 â AUSTIN, Texas â BUSINESS WIRE â Alan Arnette, world-renowned mountaineer and Alzheimerâs advocate, is traveling to Pakistan this week for his first attempt at K2. Angela Benavides (twitter, website) Alan Arnette (twitter, blog) There's a good chance I've muddled up team members, or have missed people or resources. Please click for more information on signing up, services, pricing and why select Alan as your coach. He has completed over 30 major expeditions including four Everest climbs with a summit in 2011. Everyone here in Quebec who loved climbing followed their k2 ascent.” Elia Saikaly of Ottawa, Ontario, a world class mountain film-maker, was scheduled to film the Quebec team but had to drop out at the last minute. The cause of the accident is unclear, however from reports of Sherpas who were nearby it may have been an old fixed rope that broke as the climber was descending below Camp 2. Many of the off-record reports cite the use of old ropes on K2. A tragic death, the details of which are still becoming clear. Alan Arnette is a Coach, Keynote Speaker, Mountaineer and Alzheimer's Advocate. Alan Arnette is a speaker, mountaineer and Alzheimerâs Advocate. For ore information, including how to change your settings, see our, Tenzing Norgay Biography to Become Netflix Film, Winners of the 2021 GRIT&ROCK First Ascent Grants Announced. Alan Arnette Oldest American to summit K2. Cited as "one of the worldâs most respected chroniclers of Everest" by Outside Magazine. Lost Ida Arnette to Alzheimerâs. Dessureault’s body has been retrieved and taken to Advanced Base Camp. www.alanarnette.com Updates to Hiking & Mountaineering are expected almost daily, so please check back often. He was climbing with fellow Quebecers Nathalie Fortin and Maurice Beausejour, who are both safe. Fortin posted on Facebook that they had spent the night at Camp 2 for acclimatization purposes and planned to descend back to Base Camp to wait for a suitable summit weather window. The historic first winter summit of K2 may happen on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. From the blog: Mingma G and teammates are also at Camp 4. This week, an anonymous donor agreed to match all donations made to Arnetteâs Cure Alzheimerâs Fund during his K2 climb, to a maximum of $25,000. https://explorersweb.com/2021/01/15/k2-summit-night-theyre-off/ -- K2 Summit Night : They're Off ! ”. Welcome to Hiking & Mountaineering Blog! Out of all the climbers present now for the K2 winter, to the best of my knowledge...only four are confirmed to climb without supplemental oxygen: Sergi Mingote (Spain), Juan Pablo Mohr (Chile), Tamara Lunger and myself. He was cited as, "One of the worldâs most respected chroniclers of Everest" by Outside Magazine. Itâs perfectly strong enough when itâs new, but it does get abraded as it runs over rock, and gets horribly twisted when you abseil on it.”. Everest summiter in 2011 and oldest American to summit K2 at 58 on his birthday July 27, 2014. He posted on Facebook, “Unfortunately, a Canadian team leader Mr. Serge (a member at Summit Karakoram) died due to the destructive fall from Chimney House. Finally up.â, Over on Broad Peak, the uber-aggressive Furtenbach Adventures said they are going for the summit of Broad peak, Saturday night,  July 7 “Our team just arrived at C3 on Broad Peak. up the chimney with their jumar attached to a new fixed line. Going down is a simple rappel or abseil, but care must be taken to rig the rappel device properly or a sudden fall will occur. Andrzej Bargiel had wanted to acclimatize on GII but with the bad weather abandoned this is is now moving to K2 Base Camp. It appears that there are three teams at C2: Mingma G, Nims, and Snorri, and the Seven Summits Treks massive team arrived at base camp. As of June 2019, only 379 people had reached the summit of K2. Alan Arnette: Winter K2 Update | Camp 2 Destroyed. He simply said, “What a loss.”. In doing so, he became the oldest American to accomplish that feat at the age of 58. We learned a tremendous amount of detailed information. Twitter Updates. Fingers crossed.”, Dawa Sherpa added that, on Saturday, âIt was a nice weather today, 5 members and 11 Sherpa are in Camp II and some others parties are at BC and C1.â and âRest of all are ok and pushing to high altitude, we are planning to make final summit push after 20th July.â. We are going up tomorrow and our aim is to establish camp 3. It’s unclear what brand of new ropes were used to fix K2 but over on Broad Peak, Jake Meyers gives this description: “By the sounds of things, the majority of the fixed ropes have been put in by a German Team, and when in place, were of pretty good quality, using more traditional static (very low stretch) Kernmantle rope, with only a few sections using the cheaper âKorean ropeâ. Alan Arnette Climber, Summit Coach, Speaker, Alzheimer's Advocate. K2 Summit Night : They're Off - from Explorersweb.com website, Alan Arnette : Winter K2 Update. We see the final route now. I can share my 2014 experience where I saw a spider web of old ropes, especially on the Black Pyramid. Initial reports from this year suggest that this number may have now risen to over 400 as over 30 people may have made the summit during the 2019 season. Dessureault wanted to be the first Quebecer to have climbed Everest and K2. We are ground agent of K2 Expedition of renowned climber Serge Dessureault from Canada who fell down this morning at 925hrs dated 7-7-2018 from below chimney while climbing at camp 2. Arnette segist ekki eiga von á frekari fréttum af leitinni fyrr en síðar í dag, jafnvel kvöld. Remember that Migma G is climbing without supplemental oxygen. The “Korean Cord” is usually used on K2 but maybe not this year since Madison Mountaineering was co-leading the rope fixing effort along with Seven Summits Treks and puts safety first on the list. We donât have a paywall and you donât have to be a member to access thousands of articles, photos and videos. Posts about Blog written by Alan Arnette. He completed his 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimerâs project to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimerâs research. By Alan Arnette | He will be taken to Islamabad as weather allows. The French team was supported by Summit Karakorum, who issued this statement: “Statement of Summit Karakoram Pakistan. But on January 13, the wind died down, and the now-united Nepalese team made their final push. The old ropes, regardless of quality, will rot and weaken after a season of exposure to weather and UV rays at that altitude. Alan will be presenting in the Lory Student Center Theater on February 9th at 6pm where he will take the audience through a journey of difficulty, doubts, challenges, obsta cles and eventually success. Tragic news from K2 on Saturday, July 7, 2018. Ultar Sar: An Avalanche, a Death and a Rescue in the Karakoram, K2 Remains Unclimbed in Winter: Polish Expedition Calls it Quits. After several days of journeying from Islamabad, Arnette will reach K2 after a weeklong trek on the Baltoro Glacier. He was stopped in 2016 by avalanche danger on K2. My highlights include the 7 Summits, Everest, K2, Manaslu, Ama Dablam and Alpamayo. Korean rope is 3 strand braided nylon rope, which is cheap and light, but the quality suffers as a result (itâs often referred to as âKorean washing lineâ). He is also travelling with Jon Kedrowski (blog, insta, tracker) and his wife, Jenna Besaw -----Others that seem to be in the know: Stefan Nestler . Alan Arnette has launched what he calls Virtual Everest 2020, which will unfold much the same way a typical season would progress over the next few weeks. [Alan Arnette reported other health-related mishaps on his blog January 13.] Some rate it at 5.6 without aid, but at 21,500â it is a challenge regardless of the rating. ... Arnette will blog ⦠The same warning applies on the Black Pyramid where four to ten rappels may be required depending on the season and skill of the climber. Currently, there are over 60 people camped on the Goodwin-Austin Glacier at the ⦠However, the common theme is that he fell. Alan Arnette is the oldest American to summit K2 in 2014 and has 6 expeditions on Everest or Lhotse with a summit of Everest in 2011.